Accidental Review of Char

I had no intention of writing a review of Char when I woke up this morning. As a matter of fact, I wasn’t even planning on eating there today. Last night, I spent a few hours catching up with my friend Russell Bennett over a few glasses of delicious 21 year-old Scotch, carefully crafted by the mad geniuses at Balvenie.  We talked about politics, food kids and more politics and agreed that we needed to have lunch today to carry the fun over by a day. We agreed that he would pick me up and we would try the new lunch menu at Parlor Market.

Char's New Chef, Brian Catenuto

When we arrived at our chosen eatery downtown, we discovered that the doors were hopelessly shut (curses to you Monday!). Russell suggested the Elite and I threw a little fit. I suggested checking out the new menu at Char and we hopped on the interstate, headed north to see what the new Chef (Brian Cartenuto) had going on.

The parking lot was full, as was the waiting area so we grabbed a seat at the bar. Our bartender told us about the specials (Beef Brisket or Red Beans & Rice). As a rule, I never get the same dish as my dining companion, but rules are meant to be broken. Since I wasn’t planning on writing a review, we both ordered the brisket with fries, the only difference being my side of greens and his side house salad. I asked the bartender if Brian was in the kitchen and he said he would check.

Pork Belly with Apples and Arugula 

About a week or so prior, Brian had been a guest on my show At the Cook’s Table and had prepared two signature dishes for us: Figgy Piggy (a roasted pork tenderloin with a fig and port wine reduction) and Slow Roasted Pork Belly (served with an apple cider reduction, and an arugula, apple salad). Both of which were devoured in record time. I love figs with pork and this dish lived up to my expectations. The port wine reduction added depth to sweet fruit without being cloying. The pork belly dish however, was my favorite of the two. The succulent fattiness of the pork was balanced against the acidity of the cider vinegar and the apple salad added a tart touch to cut some of the richness. Although the meat was fatty and melted in your mouth, it didn’t come off as overly rich, mainly because of the sauce and the fresh apples. To avoid  a disaster at home, I took the last bit of this dish home to Kitty and she agreed that it was one of the finest pork dishes either of us had had.

BBQ Shrimp with Fried Dressing

Our lunch arrived and was served backwards (Russell got the greens and I got the salad), but this often happens when you eat at the bar and your server comes from the dining room instead of from behind the bar. Most good servers make some note as to a diners position at the table to avoid “auctioning” the food, but right and left get mixed up easily when you transition from behind the bar to across the bar. No big deal. No great offense taken. Almost no time wasted swapping the plates. At first glance the brisket looked like it needed a bit of jus or some type of sauce, but once we tasted it, we agreed with the presentation. The band of fat across the top of the cut provided more than enough moisture to make the dish enjoyable. A sauce would have just masked the flavor of the meat and the spice rub. The French fries were perfectly crisp and golden brown and the greens were flavorful on their own accord, without the necessity of boiled bacon you so often find loitering on your plate. Neither Russell nor I found it necessary to reach for the salt or the pepper. About a third of the way through the lunch special, Brian emerged from the kitchen with bowl of Tagliatelle and placed it between Russell and me. It had a delightful aroma of lemon and scallions and the warm egg yolk atop the fresh-made pasta tempted me to poke it with a fork. Brian encouraged us to stir up the egg and dig in. Not wanting to disappoint, we acquiesced. The bright sharpness of the lemon was blanced by the egg yolk perfectly. One more squeeze of lemon or one more shave of zest would have made it sour but Brian knew when to stop and when to use a measured hand. The fresh egg yolk married beautifully with the firm pasta and the scallions added a savory top note and served as a foil to the crème fraiche. These type dishes that have so few ingredients can be either brilliant or disastrous. There just isn’t any margin for error. You either get it right or you fail. Brian got this one right. Unfortunately, we had torn through the whole bowl before I had the thought to break out the Blackberry and snap some photos. You’ll have to see this one for yourself.

Beef Brisket

As we returned to our brisket and talk of the looming 2011 statewide elections, Russell inquired as to how often it happened that chefs just sent food out to the table. I explained that it was a hazard of the occupation and that I have to be careful not to overindulge, lest I plump up like a Christmas goose. No sooner had these words come out of my mouth, our waitress appeared with yet another plate. This time, Brian sent out a flash fried cube of cornbread tasso dressing topped with jumbo shrimp and a black pepper Worcestershire buerre blanc. As we dug in, Brian came out to explain the dish. It turns out that they make the Worcestershire in-house in a vegetarian style, without any fish heads or fish paste. The dish was beautifully conceived and executed, but the notion of referring to a nearly black sauce as beurre “blanc” escapes me. Perhaps that is something they teach you in culinary school, but I would have called it “beurre noir.” Regardless of what it is called, the flavors were spot-on. The Shrimp were wonderfully briny and not overcooked. The sauce (though not “blanc”) was rich and tangy and the little cube of flash fried cornbread dressing was an unexpected and greatly appreciated touch. The outside of the dressing was inky dark and caramelized while the inside was light and almost fluffy.

We managed to finish most everything and held off on the temptation to accept the offer of donuts. I have to save at least one surprise for when I return for dinner with Kitty.

My final verdict will have to come when I can plan for a full tasting complete with wine and cocktails, but for now...I give Brian and his new menu high marks (albeit temporary ones).

«««« (four out of five possible stars)

Craig Noone and Crew Swing for the Fences

Opening Night at Parlor Market

I had a special opportunity last week. The Parlor Market held their "soft opening" for friends and fellow food industry folks. Kitty and I were lucky enough to get an invitation and we brought Mandy and Anders Ferrington with us to take it all in. I've been following the progress of this place since Donna Ladd introduced me to Chef and Owner Craig Noone this spring when the old building on State Street looked more like bombing range target than a restaurant. Last night's dinner was probably the most anticipated Jackson opening night in recent memory.

Cornbread with Buter

Craig greeted Kitty and me at the door and the balanced look of sheer panic and pure elation in his eyes belied the fact that his dream was becoming reality and that the time for planning and practice was over and the time for putting his promises on a plate was at hand. The bar and the dining room were abuzz with energy and the menu was as intriguing to the guests as the marble, wood, steel, brick and stainless that make up the big-city hip environment. Everywhere in the place, groups of two and three members of Jackson's see-and-be-seen crowd stood or sat with their attention focused on the three column, single sheet menu filled with dishes, terms and ingredients unfamiliar to most.

Ryan Bell Putting Finishing Touches on a Salad

Duck Confit with Duck Cracklin

Since we arrived at a little before eight, some of the early diners were mid-meal and the looks on their faces told the whole story and gave an accurate prediction of what we could expect. Some were gushing with smiles and rolling their heads back in ecstasy while others had looks of trepidation as they bit into foods they found exciting, albeit a little scary. But this is exactly what you expect when a restaurant is opened by a team of all star chefs, executing a shared vision of exciting, local, seasonal dishes. When you swing big, you either strike out or you hit a home run. Craig Noone has belted this one into the cheap seats, way out in center field.

Mussels + Matchsticks

The food is Southern. Not the Southern you would expect at a small town country club, but the Southern that could be easily explained if Eric Ripert had been adopted at age six by a soul food cook in Clarksdale or if Daniel Boulud had been born in Natchez to parents who owned a BBQ shack and a catfish house. The flavors and aromas are like watching a childhood home movie of someone who looks like you, but lives in Provence. It is simultaneously comforting and exciting, foreign and familiar, local and far-flung.

We abandoned any thought of trying to choose dishes and instead asked our waiter to let the kitchen know that we just wanted to be fed. Chef's choice for a table of chefs and foodies. The order was as much a challenge as it was a compliment. We essentially asked the crew to "show us what you got."

Oysters George

We opened up with four dishes: Mussels + Matchsticks, Oysters George, Duck Confit and a half dozen raw oysters with Lime Guajillo Granita. The fries could have been more crisp, but the broth in the bottom of the bowl of mussels was sopped up until the plate looked like it had been through the dishwasher. Both of the oyster dishes were exquisite. The fried ones on the Oysters George were perfectly battered and prepared with a crisp, salty coating and a just warm and still juicy flesh underneath. The raw oysters were cold, briny and well complemented by the tart granita. My favorite was the Duck Confit. The richness of the duck, cooked in its own fat, was well matched by the acidity of the pickled onions and the shaved fennel added a light hint of licorish that pairs so well with duck. The only thing missing was a bucket of the duck cracklins. One just isn't enough. When we thought we were finished with our appetizers, Craig arrived at our table with a Georgia Salad...just because. The homage to all things from the Peach State would have made Jimmy Carter blush. Grilled peaches, fried Vidalia onions, a peach sherry vinaigrette and best of all...boiled peanuts make for a delicious (albeit unconventional) salad.

Cowboy Ribeye

PM Burger

Back in the kitchen, the chefs picked out for "large plates" for us: the Cowboy Ribeye, the PM Burger, Red Snapper and Beef Tenderloin. We had a wait a little while for these dishes, but it gave us some time to have another glass of wine and do a little people watching. Honestly, on an opening night I would have forgiven an hour-long wait, but although the staff kept apologizing for the delay, our wait was only about twenty five minutes. We hardly noticed and didn't think the fuss was necessary and the food was worth the wait. For those of you not familiar with South Carolina, Low Country food, a Frogmore Stew is more of an event than a recipe. It's what we might call a shrimp boil, replete with potatoes, sausage, shrimp and corn, all boiled in one giant pot. The PM boys took this idea and turned it into the base/sauce for their Red Snapper dish. It could easily stand on its own, but man does it work with snapper. The ribeye was spiced and charred beautifully and served with a smoked tomato gravy. Craig explained that there had been some discussion about the gravy and whether or not they would serve it. They chose wisely and it made the dish. Beef tenderloin is usually my least favorite cut, but this one was properly prepared and delightfully tender. But the star of that dish was the shrimp maque choux and cheese. They should seriously consider making this accompaniement a main dish, or at least a small plate. You would never have the Rolling Stones as the opening act for 38 Special so why relegate this, perhaps the best thing I ate all night, cheesy-shrimpy perfection to the role of side dish. The PM Burger was melt-in-your-mouth good and worth every penny of its $15 price tag. If you are a "burger person" stop reading right now, pick up the phone and make a reservation. That night, the bun seemed a little spongy and overworked, but when I had it again on the radio show a few days later, they seemed to have worked out the kinks. Craig chalked it up to asking his professional pastry chef to reach below her usual culinary heights and make something as pedestrian as a hamburger bun. To lubricate our conversations and complement our meals, we chose the Alexander Valley Cabernet Savignon, which stood up well to all of the fat and bold flavors we were stuffing into our faces.

Dessert Carnage

When it came time for dessert, we abandoned any sense of responsible dining and just ordered the lot. These were very interesting dishes. Two of them I would call "chef dishes" because they might not appeal to every palate, but offer a complexity that could take an adventerous spirit to appreciate. I'll start with those. The Mason Jar Strawberry Cake combines sweet with hot with bitter and with tartness. The blackberry ricotta icing is a great foil to the richness of the dense, buttery strawberry cake and the acidity in the strawberry black pepper reduction is brilliant. I adored the lack of cloying sweetness and the chances they took with this dish. Craig said it was getting 50/50 good to bad reviews from the diners and this is what I would expect. He tried to explain to the customers who didn't like it that they needed to eat the cake with a dip of the reduction, but dishes shouldn't come with instructions. If everyone likes every dish, you are playing it too safe. The Key Lime + White Chocolate Mousse is a little less adventerous, but still foreign to many. The coriander and graham cracker crust is delightfully savory, but may not appeal to everyone. For broader appeal, Craig and his crew put three other desserts on the menu that strike a much more familiar chord. The Affogato (doughnuts, espresso and gelato), Nancy Nanner (boiled peanut ice cream with peanut butter and banana toast) and Walk Down Memory Lane (mini moon pie, push up pop and gusher cupcake) would not confuse even the most meat-n-potatoes customer and really...who can resist a push-up pop.

Anders Ferrington, Craig Noone, Kitty Cook Ramsey

When it was all over, we leaned back into our chairs and marveled at the damage we had done. Everyone was impressed and we will certainly go back again and again. My only negative comment would be the wine list. Too much valuable real estate on the menu is dedicated to "Southern Wines." I know that Craig wants to stay true to his roots and offer a uniquely Southern experience, but that should not come at the expense of quality. There are just way too many great wines out there and narrowing great wine choices in the name of thematic presentation is selling the food short. There's also a glaring hole on the wine list when it comes to premium bottles. Looking at the incredible selection of very expensive whiskeys, I can't understand why the highest-dollar bottle of grape on the page is $68 Chardonnay. Parlor Market is the kind of place that begs for celebrations and the lack of premium wines cuts this short. The good news is, the ABC truck runs every couple of days, so correcting this problem is easy...a phone call and check.

Although I might be a little biased by my friendship with these guys, I can honestly say that Parlor Market served me one of the best meals of my recent memory and is on par with some of the finest restaurants in New York, Chicago, New Orleans, London or Paris. Great job guys. Now you just have to keep it up.

«««« (Four Stars out of a Possible Five)
Nobody gets a perfect score on opening night. See you soon for the follow up guys.

Jelly Donut and Cherry Beer Bread Pudding

We debuted this recipe at The Top of the Hops Beer Festival in Jackson MS last weekend for Tom's Sam Adams University Beer Pairing Seminar.  We paired it with the Sam Adams Cherry Wheat and it was a big hit! 

1 loaf crusty French bread
1 dozen glazed donuts
6 cherry jelly donuts
3 cups whole milk
1 6 oz. bag dry cherries
1 bottle Sam Adams Cherry Wheat beer
3 sticks unsalted butter
2 cups brown sugar
1/4 cup confectioner’s sugar
2 Tbsp. vanilla extract
1 Tbsp. cinnamon
½ tsp. ground nutmeg
6 large eggs
¼ tsp. salt

Prep
Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees. Break the bread and donuts into 1” cubes and place in a large mixing bowl. Melt 2 sticks of butter in a large glass bowl. To the melted butter add; brown sugar, granulated sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt and beer. Mix thoroughly until sugar is dissolved. Add sugar mixture and eggs to the bread and blend with your hands until evenly distributed. Add enough milk to moisten all of the bread and mix thoroughly with your hands. Add cherries and pecans and mix again until evenly distributed. Add more milk until all of the bread is wet but no milk is standing in the bowl. This last part is tricky, but trust your instincts and practice. Too much milk is less of a disaster than too little, so err on the heavy side. Spoon the mixture into a greased roasting pan or high-side baking dish and spread evenly around the pan. Cut the butter into ten or twelve pats and place evenly on the top of the mixture. Sprinkle the mixture with ½ of the confectioner’s sugar.

Cook
Bake in 375 degree oven for 45 minutes. Remove and allow to cool for at least 15 minutes.

Plate
Cut the pudding into squares and place in a shallow bowl. Top with confectioners sugar.

(Serves 12)

Sauteed Redfish over Orange Curry Summer Vegetable Relish and Cilantro Rice

Heather, the meat manager at McDades on Northside, pointed out this beautiful redfish so I decided to do something simple with it.  With fish this good, all you need is salt, pepper, butter and a hot pan.

Orange Curry Summer Vegetable Relish

4 tbsp butter
Finely diced:
1 yellow squash
1 zucchini
1 red onion
2 leeks
4 cloves garlic
1/2 cup finely chopped cilantro (about 1/2 a bunch)
1 ear of corn

2 tsp curry powder
juice of 4 clementines
Melt butter in skillet over medium low heat. Add vegetables, curry powder, and clementine juice. Saute until thoroughly hot but still firm. 
 
For best results, cook one redfish fillet at a time. Heat skillet until hot.  Add 1 tbsp butter per filet.  Salt and pepper the filet, add to skillet, cook until the center and thickest part of the fish flakes with a fork. 

Farmer's Market

I will be doing a live cooking demonstration at the Mississippi Farmer's Market this Saturday (July 3rd) at 10:30 AM. In keeping with the watermelon theme of the market this weekend, I'll be making Sautéed Mississippi Catfish with a Watermelon Relish, Hot and Sweet Watermelon Salsa and a Virgin Watermelon Colada!

Come see us and don't miss a minute of the excitement!

Bon Appetit!
~Tom

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If you enjoy the blog, the radio show and the cooking demonstrations, please make sure to visit our sponsors and let them know you are a fan. below are the email links to our main sponsors. Just drop them a note and say how much you enjoy the entertainment they provide.

Thanks!
Tom

McDade's Markets - http://mcdadesmarkets.com/contact.php5
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Mint, the Restaurant - email@mintjulepms.com
Colony Wine Market - colonywinemarket@aol.com

Seeing Less of Me

Hopefully, in the coming weeks and months, you will be seeing less of me. I'm not talking about the frequency, I'm talking about the bulk. It seems as though I have reached some perfect fat-boy stasis. The amount of food that I eat, combined with the amount of calories that I burn toting my big 'ol self around meet up perfectly and I neither gain nor loose weight. It just stays at around 230. According to the people who know and name such things, that is obese. Well...not anymore.

In every cooking class, I get questions about what foods to avoid. I tell everyone the same thing...avoid things that are poisonous. Like rat poison. Or battery acid, antifreeze, arsenic, lye or over-sauced trout with cheap crab meat. My philosophy has always been, if it tastes good, it is good. If something is pretending to be something else, then the original is probably better for you anyway, just in moderation. This is just as true for butter/margarine as it is for Cher/drag Cher impersonator.

Now it is time for me to put my money where my very mouth is. Or better stated, put my big fat arse where my overly stimulated taste buds are. I am not going to change how I cook at all. I will use all of the seven deadly dietary sins (butter, bacon fat, cream, sugar, pork, carbohydrates and alcohol), but use them responsibly. If I eat a very heavy meal, I'll just add some time to my workout (oh yeah, I am going to start working out again). This is just a matter of simple math that would look like this in an Excel spreadsheet:

(IFcalories_in>calories_burnedTHENweightROUNDUP)

(IFcalories_in

Feel free to correct my Excel syntax. I haven't run a big 'ol complex forecasting model in quite some time.

Each day. I'll come on here and post my progress or lack thereof. I'll include the weigh-in, what I ate for meals and snacks and if you, the readers request it, the recipes. I'll also jot down notes about my exercise. My goal is to fit into my sacred pair of Tom Ford pinstripe pants that have been gathering dust in my closet since, since, since...well...a long time ago.

Wish me luck. Cheer me on. Jeer or mock me if you must. This should be interesting. You can always check with Kitty if you need third party verification.

Bon Appetit!
~Tom

PS: I started tonight with a big meal of summer vegetables. Squash Wild Garlic and Onions cooked in Pecan Oil, Basmati Rice with Butter and Chives, Lady Peas, Tomatoes with Mayo and Brussels Sprouts with Smoked Almonds.

If you have a spare 10 minutes...

please follow this link and take a survey about food/cooking television shows.

I might have something new up my sleeve and your answers could help me make some decisions.

Thanks - Tom

Pasta Salad and a Pool

Yesterday was one of those perfect Sunday afternoons. Kitty was in a "curl up with a book" kind of mood and gave me a yard-pass to hang out by Peter's pool. I packed up a sixer of Abita Turbodog, grabbed my swim trunks and wasted no time high-tailing it over to Rosehill Circle. It was hot and sunny. The beer was so cold that it hurt my teeth and the pool was shimmering wet perfection. After an hour or, the boys started trickling in and we had a genuine all-dude swimfest, complete with cannonball contests and some "throwing of the Zak" for exercise.

To say "thank you" to Rose and Peter for the hospitality (in the only way I know how) I whipped up a big bowl of Pesto Chicken Pasta Salad with fresh basil and wild garlic from my yard. It was good hot, but much better after we let it chill for while.

How could this night get any better you ask? Well...I'll tell you. After dinner and a glass of wine, Peter informed me that he had the DVD of the latest UFC bouts and we watched MMA fighting while we polished off a pottle of Ghost Pines Cabernet.

Thanks Peter! Let's do that again.

A Bit Too Much Rosemary

To quote Britney Spears...DING DANG Y'ALL!*

After the lovely Kitty and I checked out the matinée of Get Him to the Greek (which was a really good movie, by the way), we dropped in on our friends at Colony Wine Market and picked up a few bottles of my new favorite wines made by Chris Ringland and R Wines. This guy does something very special with grapes and I have loved every wine of his that I have tried. Tonight we picked up bottles of Luchador, Strong Arms and Southern Belle. All of these Shiraz beauties have different notes and bite. Kitty loves the jammy and solid Luchador and with the roasted chicken we ate, it was a perfect pairing. My fave is the Southern Belle, a kick-in-the-head, fruity, alcohol bomb that really needs red meat or BBQ to stand up to it.

We got a late start to dinner and I made a compound butter of rosemary, garlic and bacon. It was the first time for this combination and I really overdid it with the rosemary. It gave the breast meat a piny twinge that was overbearing. I want to try this again with about half as much rosemary. I think it will be a winner when I get the mixture figured out. Oh well...you can't win 'em all.

*That is a quote from my favorite Britney, the plump, on drugs, pink wig-wearing, paparazzi car-smashing, Britney who proudly served Doritos to her toddlers and let them wash it down with Dr. Pepper in their bottles. She had the best grocery store feet I've ever seen on a pop star. Man I miss her.

Once More Unto the Breach...

With the muck and mess in the Gulf of Mexico slowly, but surely wiping out the harvest of the best shrimp on Earth, I have lately been craving those scrumptious crustaceans. A few weeks ago, I whipped up one of my signature dishes, Shrimp with Chili Oil and Toasted Sunflower Seeds for an upcoming TV segment for At the Cook's Table and this past week, I've tried two versions of a new recipe, Sautéed Shrimp with Coconut Apricot and Chipotle Reduction. The first time, I used only the milk from a fresh coconut and then I tried it with about a half cup of the fresh coconut flesh. both times I served them over a Bacon and Squash Hash, but the second time, I added chopped Brussels sprouts and cooked it longer to make it browner and hashier. Both were quite good, but something is still missing. I'll keep working on it and keep you abreast of the progress. Any Guinea Pig volunteers?

Here is v1.0

And v1.1

Nice Work Dan

A few weeks ago, my good friend Dan Blumenthal was on the inaugural broadcast of At the Cook's Table. One of the dishes he brought with him to eat on-air was the new croque monsieur he recently added to the menu at Broad Street Baking Company. So, when Kitty and I dropped by Broad St. to grab a quick bite to eat, I figured I would try it again, but this time piping hot and fresh out of the kitchen. I made the right choice. It was great. I'll definately order it again. You should go eat one of these right now.

More Tacos

The tacos at the Trent Walker fundraiser were so good, Kitty and I decided to whip up some more at home. These were of the uber-simple variety...Flatiron Steak seasoned with Ivy & Devine Coffee Rub (soon to be available at McDade's) on a warm tortilla with cilantro and a bit of horseradish mayo. Yum.

The Pro-Am

My beautiful wife, Kitty, enlisted me to cook for a political fundraiser last week. I never mind helping her out, particularly when it means that people will be eating my food, but this one was particularly exciting gig. I've recently come to know and love the guys from Parlor Market, Craig, Gary, Jesse and Ryan and at this event, I got to share the kitchen with them. The event had a Latin "Fiesta" theme so we met for drinks and decided to make some great Mexican street food. With trips to McDade's and Carneceria Valdez, we put together a menu of Pork Tacos, Chicken Tacos and Watermelon Chipotle Salsa.

The night before the event we all gathered at the private event space of Parlor Market and knocked out the prep work and made the salsa. We also made the decision to braise the pork overnight in a braising liquid with plenty of Rogue Mocha Porter and Chipotle Ale.

The day of the event, we made the sauces, cooked and shredded the chickens, pulled the pork, packed everything up at set up at the sky terrace of the Electric 308 Building. About ten minutes after we got everything set up, the rain started and we had to make a double-time effort to move it all to the main lobby on the first floor. We served the pork tacos with a redeye gravy mayo and the chicken tacos with a tomatillo salsa verde. We also gave the party-goers the options of pickled onions, pickled radishes, chopped cilantro and lime.

The food was a big hit and everything went beautifully with Kitty's red wine sangria. And best of all...I got to hit the kitchen with the hottest new pros in the Jackson culinary scene. Perfect.

A Beautiful Gift from Sidney

As many of you know, Kitty's father Sidney passed away recently. He had been ill for quite some time, but the end of great lives is always a sad occasion. He and Lynn had recently moved from a house in the country, out side of Drew, Mississippi, to a house in the big city of Cleveland, Mississippi. The new house was right next door to the library (where Lynn works) and right behind the Episcopal church. If they had a grocery store and a wine shop in the same block, they would have never needed a car, except to take the dogs to the vet. They kept the old place near Drew and today, Kitty, Lynn and I made the trip out there to pick up some furniture and other odds and ends. I managed to throw my back out lifting the first piece for furniture and luckily it was the only heavy one. JT, a big man in his 60's who had once worked for Sidney, did the rest of the heavy lifting and even managed to whip a nest of wasps into a real frenzy while removing a window unit a/c.

This was the first time Kitty and I had been out to the old house since they had moved. I felt a deep sense of regret that I hadn't had the opportunity to go back out there with Sidney and dig up a truckload of the native plants that were all around the place. While I was gingerly moving some sticks out of the way for the moving van, I spotted some wild garlic plants and asked Lynn if I could pull up a few. She told me to take all I wanted and I ignored the searing pain in my back as I pulled up about two dozen plants. They were still a little green and milky, but I figured I wouldn't have the opportunity to get back up there any time soon. We loaded them in the back of the moving van, next to the bed, the mattress, the dishwasher and the formerly wasp-filled window units and made one more walk around the old place. Kitty cut a few branches off of the big Bay Tree behind the shed and I spotted an anvil that I would seriously like to have in my workshop. Kitty got her bays home. I had to leave the anvil for another trip.

When we got home, Stuart, Kitty and I cut the bulbs and tops from the garlic and stuck them in some loose soil in the big planter on the porch. I know the bulbs will take root and I hope some of the tops will do the same. While separating the tops and the roots, I noticed that the lower half of the stalks were quite tender. I bit into one of them to check for bitterness and was delighted to find that they had bright, yet earthy taste like a cross between a ramp, a green onion and garlic. We were so tired from moving that we had discussed getting takeout for supper, but the taste of the wild garlic changed my mind. Instead of some protein-in-a-box nightmare, I got in to the kitchen and whipped up a hearty soup with the garlic stalks as the star.

As you can see, it turned out beautiful. Thanks Sidney.

Bon Appetit
~Tom

Mexican Adventure

Stuart's graduation practice was this morning and I figured he was deserving of a break when he finished around 11:30. When I asked Stuart if he was in the mood for authentic Mexican tacos, he enthusiastically replied YES!

Kitty and I recently learned about a trio of taquerias in Ridgeland, Mississippi just past County Line Road. Earlier in the week, accompanied by we tried Taqueria Guadalupe and Carneceria Valdez. Both were fantastic, but we preferred Carneceria Valdez because of the presentation of limes and radishes along with the trio of sauces. We also liked the fact that when you ordered your tacos, you saw the butcher/cook grab a handful of meat and run to the back, emerging minutes later with a basket of steamy goodness. We attempted to sample all three that day, but La Morena is open every day but Tuesday (the day we visited).

So today, with Stuart in-tow, we went directly to La Morena to complete our taqueria tour. It was certainly worth the wait. When we waled in the door and I spotted one of the cooks mashing a ball of corn meal in a tortilla press, I knew we made the right choice. Stuart ordered two tacos (one beef, one pork) and a Mexican Coke, which he had never had before. Kitty also got two tacos (one beef, one chicken) and a Mineragua and I upped the ante with three tacos (one pork, one chorizo, one tongue) and a Tamarind Soda. All were served with the traditional sprinkling of white onions and fresh cilantro and a wedge of lime.

All of the tacos were delightful, but the chorizo was my favorite. The singular thing that made La Morena stand head and shoulders above the other two places was the fresh tortillas. There is no way to duplicate this flavor with commercial brands and with the taco, the tortilla is the star. This star was a supernova. The edges were rough and rustic, the feel was firm with the grain of the corn retaining its texture. I could really appreciate the aroma of the corn as the steam rose up from the tortiallas to greet my nose. The meats were well seasoned and expertly cooked, retaining their moisture. The three fresh-made sauces offered a great variety from the bright and tart green one, the fiery hot orange one to the smoky red one. They each had their own distinct characteristics and I would have been happy to have any one of them.

After we ate, I visited with the owner while we browsed through the selection of boots, cowboy shirts and Mexican grocery items in the back. When we first arrived, I saw a young boy (her son) get very excited when one of the cooks emerged from the back part of the kitchen with a steaming bowl of meatballs. I asked her about them and she explained that each day she has a different special and that today's was a braised meatball. Although we were full from the tacos, I had to give one of these a try.

I went back to the service counter and asked about the meatballs. The cook flashed a big smile and brought me a bowl of rice with two meatballs, topped with a rich tomato and tamarind sauce. i called to the back for Kitty and Stuart to try this with me. I regretted that I had to share. They were one of the best things I've ever had, and that is saying a lot. The meat was well seasoned, but no overly so and each ball contained a little surprise in the center...a quarter of a boiled egg. The sauce was the perfect silky consistency and had small slices of carrot and garlic. When the cook saw how happy we were, she brought out a little more rice and sauce along with three steaming, fresh tortillas. We ate every bite and sopped up the last bits of sauce with the last pieces of tortilla.

When we left, Stuart proclaimed that he would never even bother with Mexican food anywhere else and debated whether he would tell his friends about La Morena or just keep it as his own little secret.

I wanted him to try the chicharones at Valdez so we made a quick stop there and picked up a half pound to enjoy on the ride home. Kitty REALLY loves chicharones, but we were so full that some of them managed to make it home, where they were devoured by Zak after school.

I can recommend any of these three spots, but the best is clearly La Morena. Just remember that they are closed on Tuesday and they don't accept credit cards. Oh yea, and save some room for the candied fruit.

Bon Appetit

~Tom

Have I ever mentioned how much I love chicken thighs?

You're probably sick of hearing this, but I really do love chicken thighs. I used them in a Ragout for one of the TV segments this week and I cooked them low and slow with wine tonight. Earlier in the week, I boned them and made Chicken Thighs Stuffed with Bacon Squash and Cheese. About two weeks ago, I grilled them with a little pecan wood and served them with julienned zucchini and squash. If I could make a hair gel out of them, I would wear them on my head.

Kitty voted that the thighs cooked in wine tonight (and served with a blender sauce made from the pan drippings, the veggies, some cream and a bit of butter) were the best thing she has eaten all year.

Here are the photos. If you want any of the recipes, just shoot me an email tom@tomramsey.com

Bon Appetit!
~Tom

Chicken Thighs Braised in Wine

Boneless Chicken Thighs with Cheese Sauce and Bacon, Squash and Onion Stuffing

Pecan Grilled Chicken Thighs

A Very Long Trip

Yesterday, I got out of bed at the unholy hour of 4:00AM, grabbed a quick shower, brewed up a shot of Cuban coffee and hit the road. If I'm going to keep up the efforts to launch my culinary career, I have to occasionally do some real work in the lobbying/government relations world. Yesterday was one of those days. I had a meeting in Carrolton, GA with the Mayor and the City Manager to discuss automated traffic enforcement. The meeting was scheduled for 11:30 and with the loss of an hour by traveling East, I had to get on the road by 4:30.

Around 10:00 I had to grab a little bite to eat to calm my coffee/Diet Coke sloshing stomach. I pulled into a truck stop and grabbed a couple packs of Nabs. When I was a "road warrior" traveling across the country selling cigars for my old brand, Avalon, I used to keep a stash of at least a dozen packs of Nabs in the glove box of my old Volvo. When someone would ask me about the stash I would reply, "Well...I don't have any gloves. Had to put something in there."

The Nabs held me over until the lunch meeting at the Carrolton Country Club (a very nice BLT and a cup of Loaded Potato Soup). The visit was a success and it looks like I'll be able to keep playing "Tom the Cook" for a little while longer. The ride home went by a little faster than the ride up and I made it back home in time to eat supper with Kitty and the kids. I was asleep by 9:30.

I don't miss being on the road all the time, but I do miss the satisfying, salty, crunchy goodness of the lowly Nab. I guess it just reminds me of when I was a kid traveling with my parents. Back then, seatbelts were purely ornamental and all three of us kids would fight over who got to stretch out on the speaker deck behind the back seat of Mom's Town Car. Mom and dad would be in the front seat, smoking their asses off with the windows rolled up and Neil Diamond on the 8-track. Sweet Caroline...good times never seemed so good...

A Very Happy Whit

If you've ever spent enough time around me, you've heard me tell the story about my kids having food tastes that match their personalities. Our middle son, Whit, is the one who craves comfort foods. To him, pot roast is like a big warm hug. So last night, he got a very special hug...six-hour pot roast and boiled potatoes. The roast recipe is quite simple. Carrots, onion, celery, garlic and mushrooms, all roughly chopped and cooked with a slab of meat over low heat. You can make it faster, but you just don't get the same result. If you would like to be as happy as Whit in this picture, send me an email and I'll send you the recipe.
Bon Appetit!
~Tom

Hello Blog. I missed you, but now I'm back.

My last post was on tax day and those chicken thighs were great. Since then, life has been a wild ride. The radio show started last week and it has been a blast. We shot the teaser/pilot for the TV show. I threw Kitty and Kim a great birthday party. I got to put on cooking demonstrations at Sante South and Persnickety Kitchens and I've made new friends. On top off all that, I've managed to cook some terrific food. Here are some photos. If you want the recipes, just send me an email and ask.

Kitty's Birthday "Cake" (Honey & Gingered Fruit with Cilantro Whipped Cream)
Since my lovely wife has a gluten sensitivity, I made her a big 'ol bowl of fresh fruit, soaked it with a honey and ginger sauce and topped it with cilantro whipped cream. The candles worked nicely with the cream.

Keeping with the gluten free menu idea, those are crackers made of rice and nuts served with caramelized onions over cream cheese. These onions were caramelized for so long that they were actually sweet.

These pork skewers were marinated with wine and soy and grilled. The sauce is a hot curry peanut sauce.

These are chicken skewers with a Dr. Pepper BBQ sauce.

When we finished shooting at Antoine's Restaurant in New Orleans, I noticed that the receptionists/hostesses were enjoying some fine Popeye's Chicken. Even at one of the finest restaurants in the world, nobody can resist Popeye's!

I was in a hurry...Kitty was hungry. Tortillas, a little meat, lettuce, tomatoes, sour cream and Voila! There you have a quick and fresh lunch.

As a "Thank You" to Pamela, out hair and makeup maven for the TV show, I whipped up some rosemary and sea salt crusted lamb chops with a cream pan sauce.

Stuart, rocking the smoking jacket and enjoying a tasty strawberry milk.

And finally, tonight's dinner with Kitty. Flatiron steak with sautéed spinach, asparagus and a lovely reduction sauce.

Now, we're pretty much caught up. I'll do a whole new post on the TV pilot soon.

Bon Appetit!
~Tom